15 October
Today I got up early and snorkeled off Shark Point again. When I returned to shower, I noticed several of the staff staring at a bush near my bungalow. I asked them what they were looking at.

“Snake!” said a man and threw a stone at the bush. I went closer and sure enough, there was a beautiful bright emerald and dark blue snake about a meter long. It was perfectly still on a branch and one third of its body was held stiff in the air. I wished that I could have photographed it.

I checked out and then returned to Pin’s shop at midday and ate lunch with June. In the afternoon I played volleyball with a Canadian, a German, a couple of Americans and a few local Thais. My game has improved greatly and my team even won – with me serving the winning point!

Dook came to Phi Phi today. She seems to have recovered from her bad mood, merely remarking that I was an old, balding man with a bad character who had “more than 10 snakes in my hair…”

I checked in the mirror to verify this but thankfully saw no serpents. I realized that this must be a Thai figure of speech and asked June to explain. She told me that I had 17 snakes in my hair and refused to elaborate further.

I gave up and went to take a shower. As I headed towards Pin’s shop, I heard two local girls planning the evening.

“I know what,” said one. “Let’s go take a shower, dress up sexy and then get drunk…”

I didn’t hear if there was anymore to her plan because just then, the amplified lament of a Muslim calling the faithful to prayer echoed across the island and drowned out the rest of what she said.

The indigenous population of Koh Phi Phi is made up of a mixture of Buddhists and Muslims. Both religions forbid the consumption of alcohol and yet the bars are always full with locals. I have been to only one restaurant here which bans alcohol on the premises. It is run by a quiet Muslim family and serves excellent Thai and Farang food. It is almost always deserted…